Solar On-Roof Mounting Instructions

The Gasokol 0n-roof panel array is made up of 2 or more panels. The plumbing connections are joined at the top, and the panels are mechanically held in place using an aluminium profile.
Step 1. Decide where the panel is to be positioned, using the table below mark the bolt holes in the tile/slate.
 
Leave 350 mm at the edge.
 
The holes can be moved to match up with the rafters below.
 
Do not mark the holes in the bottom of the tile valley or too close to the edge of a tile. Drill the holes in the tile/slate with a 8mm diamond or masonary drill bit.
 
As heavier bolts are needed for flat plates than for vacuum tube panels to take extra wind loading, pilot holes should be drilled in the rafter/noggin below.
 
Screw in the bolts using an allen key or spanner. Do not overtighten as this may crack the slate/tile.
 
To improve the seal, coat the bottom of the seal with Tec-7, this will glue the seal to the tile giving a much more robust fitting.
 
Step 2. Fix stainless steel bracket to top of bolt and join to aluminium rail using the fixings supplied. Do not over-tighten the bracket at this stage as it will need to be moved in the next step.
 
Step 3. Carry the panels up to the roof using the handles supplied, and sit onto the bottom aluminium rail.
 
Step 4. Join plumbing unions at the top of the panel, move rails into lock panel in its final position.
 
Step 5. Fit T-Piece with sensor pocket to right hand panel. Join flexible steel pipes to connections. Take care not to twist the panel pipework when joining.
 
Step 6. Fit T-Piece with sensor pocket to right hand panel. Join flexible steel pipes to connections. Take care not to twist the panel pipework when joining.
 
Step 7. Use the self tapping screws to provide the final fixings.
 
Step 8. Bring the flexible stainless pipework in through the vent tiles.
 
Step 9. Connect and fill as for other panels
 
The manifold is attached to the frame with 6mm bolts, while the frame is assembled with the 8mm bolts provided. (14mm, 10mm spanners and/or sockets required).

Apply "thread-lock" to the bolts as the frame is assembled. It is normally easier to assemble the frame at ground level and use ropes or straps to hoist to roof level.

Step 2. Attach the frame to the roof

The next step is to fix the supporting frame to the roof. Locate the centre of the rafter, this can be done by lifting tiles, or using a pair of strong magnets. Drill a 8 mm hole through the tile using a masonry (or diamond) drill bit. Screw the solar bolt through the hole in the tile and into the rafter below. Where the rafters cannot be located or if the tile profile does not match the rafter below, a noggin can be used instead.

Note that the solar bolt should be attached at the highest point in the tile profile, so that rain will have a natural tendency to flow away from the seal. Do not mount the screw in the tile "valley" unless there is a route for rain water to flow unimpeded down the roof. It is good practice to use "Tec-7" under the seal, so that the seal is stuck permanently to the slate/tile.

It is also recommended that the solar bolt is screwed into the wood/rafter a depth of at least 2 inches or 50mm. A baton with a typical depth of 25mm is therefore not suitable.

Disclaimer, note that some house particularly wood frame houses use heavier batons and therefore, the spacing under the tile can change. It is the installer's responsibility to ensure that sufficient penetration and the rafter is in good enough condition to give the required strength.

In some cases, particularly with Spanish Roll type tiles, it may be necessary to use a longer (150mm instead of the standard 130mm) solar bolt.

Attach panel frame to threaded bar of the solar bolts.

Step 3. Attaching Pipework to the Panel

The manifold connection is a 22mm copper pipe. It is normally easier to make the connections before the panel is brought up to roof level. Because 10mm pipe is used on many hot water installations, it is necessary to reduce the 22mm connections to 10mm.

Two panels can be joined together using a "610" straight 22mm compression coupler. Slacken off the bolts holding the manifold to the frame, slide the manifold away, introduce the coupler and slide the manifold back into position and re-tighten.

Normally 22mm 615 Compression elbows are used at the ends of the panel, and converted to mate with the pipe-work. A 316 with 22mm on one side and ½" BSP on the other allows a very simple connection to DN12 flexible stainless steel pipework.

Step 3. Bringing Pipework through the Roof.

Use ½" 100mm long nipples and backing nuts to penetrate the roof. Use 340 fittings to convert the compression end of the nipple to a flat surface enabling a good seal to the washer and stainless pipe.

Seal the backing nuts with the tile using a generous coating of Tec-7 to leave a completely watertight seal.

Only insulate after the system has been pressure tested (so that leaks can be seen during pressure testing) with high temperature waterproof insulation.

Step 4. Plumbing & Pipework

Pipework to and from the panel should be in copper or flexible stainless steel, with high temperature insulation, all gaps in the insulation should be closed.

Due to high temperatures and pressures that can exist if the panel stagnates, plastic piping (e.g. Qualplex) should never be used within the solar circuit.