Solar Fixing Methods

The frame consists of 3 uprights (2 for 18 tube panel), a manifold and the bottom cross bar. Assemble the frame using the supplied nuts, bolts and stainless steel fittings. The bottom cross bar pictured below should be positioned so that the wider lip is pointing up. This allows the black tube holders to clip in.
The manifold is attached to the frame with 6mm bolts, while the frame is assembled with the 8mm bolts provided. (14mm, 10mm spanners and/or sockets required).

Apply "thread-lock" to the bolts as the frame is assembled. It is normally easier to assemble the frame at ground level and use ropes or straps to hoist to roof level.

Step 2. Attach the frame to the roof

The next step is to fix the supporting frame to the roof. Locate the centre of the rafter, this can be done by lifting tiles, or using a pair of strong magnets. Drill a 8 mm hole through the tile using a masonry (or diamond) drill bit. Screw the solar bolt through the hole in the tile and into the rafter below. Where the rafters cannot be located or if the tile profile does not match the rafter below, a noggin can be used instead.

Note that the solar bolt should be attached at the highest point in the tile profile, so that rain will have a natural tendency to flow away from the seal. Do not mount the screw in the tile "valley" unless there is a route for rain water to flow unimpeded down the roof. It is good practice to use "Tec-7" under the seal, so that the seal is stuck permanently to the slate/tile.

It is also recommended that the solar bolt is screwed into the wood/rafter a depth of at least 2 inches or 50mm. A baton with a typical depth of 25mm is therefore not suitable.

Disclaimer, note that some house particularly wood frame houses use heavier batons and therefore, the spacing under the tile can change. It is the installer's responsibility to ensure that sufficient penetration and the rafter is in good enough condition to give the required strength.

In some cases, particularly with Spanish Roll type tiles, it may be necessary to use a longer (150mm instead of the standard 130mm) solar bolt.

Attach panel frame to threaded bar of the solar bolts.

Step 3. Attaching Pipework to the Panel

The manifold connection is a 22mm copper pipe. It is normally easier to make the connections before the panel is brought up to roof level. Because 10mm pipe is used on many hot water installations, it is necessary to reduce the 22mm connections to 10mm.

Two panels can be joined together using a "610" straight 22mm compression coupler. Slacken off the bolts holding the manifold to the frame, slide the manifold away, introduce the coupler and slide the manifold back into position and re-tighten.

Normally 22mm 615 Compression elbows are used at the ends of the panel, and converted to mate with the pipe-work. A 316 with 22mm on one side and ½" BSP on the other allows a very simple connection to DN12 flexible stainless steel pipework.

Step 3. Bringing Pipework through the Roof.

Use ½" 100mm long nipples and backing nuts to penetrate the roof. Use 340 fittings to convert the compression end of the nipple to a flat surface enabling a good seal to the washer and stainless pipe.

Seal the backing nuts with the tile using a generous coating of Tec-7 to leave a completely watertight seal.

Only insulate after the system has been pressure tested (so that leaks can be seen during pressure testing) with high temperature waterproof insulation.

Step 4. Plumbing & Pipework

Pipework to and from the panel should be in copper or flexible stainless steel, with high temperature insulation, all gaps in the insulation should be closed.

Due to high temperatures and pressures that can exist if the panel stagnates, plastic piping (e.g. Qualplex) should never be used within the solar circuit.